Nepal

Most people arrive for the mountains and leave remembering Bhaktapur. The Kathmandu Valley holds three former royal cities within twenty kilometres, and the woodcarving in Patan’s courtyards repays a full day rather than a photo stop. For walking, we favour the middle hills — Ghandruk, Ghale Gaun, the ridges above Pokhara — where lodges are comfortable, days run four to six hours, and Annapurna South and Machhapuchhre sit close enough to feel unreasonable at breakfast. Chitwan adds rhino, gharial and, from a canoe on the Rapti at seven in the morning, more birds than anyone can name. October and November give the clearest air; March and April give rhododendron in flower and softer light.