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Journeys · India

Assam Despatch: Rhinos & Tea

Eight days on the upper Brahmaputra, weighted towards the two things Assam does better than anywhere: one-horned rhino and second-flush tea. You sail from Guwahati past the silk looms of Sualkuchi, walk the Jia…

Length
8 days, 7 nights
From
₹4,25,000 per person
Pace
Active
Stops
5
Best months
November to April

The route

5 stops over 8 days

  1. Guwahati
  2. Sualkuchi
  3. Tezpur
  4. Nameri
  5. Kaziranga
  • Three safaris in Kaziranga, including the rhino-dense Bagori range
  • Muga silk on the loom in Sualkuchi’s back lanes
  • Rafting the clear Jia Bhoroli below the Arunachal foothills
  • The sixth-century Da Parbatia doorframe at Tezpur
  • Tea tasting at Hathikuli, organic and next to the park

Day by day

What actually happens

Length
8 days
Stops
5
Pace
Active
From
₹4,25,000
  1. 1D

    Guwahati

    Arrive and board at Pandu

    You are met at Guwahati airport and driven straight to Pandu ghat, where the ship lies alongside. Cabins are ready by two. The Brahmaputra here is nearly ten kilometres wide in places, and the first thing you notice is how little noise it makes. Safety briefing at six, dinner at eight, and a short sail upstream to anchor off Aswaklanta.

    Night: Overnight on board

  2. 2B L D

    Sualkuchi

    Silk looms at Sualkuchi

    Sualkuchi weaves muga, the golden silk that only Assam produces, and almost every house on the main lane has a loom going by seven. You watch a mekhela chador take shape, thread by thread, at roughly a metre a day. Afterwards, the Hayagriva Madhava temple at Hajo, where Buddhist pilgrims from Bhutan come to a Hindu shrine without anyone minding.

    Night: Overnight on board

  3. 3B L D

    On the Brahmaputra

    A day of chars and dolphin

    No landing until late. The ship works upstream between char islands that the river rebuilds every year, past mustard in flower and men cutting thatch. Gangetic dolphin surface off the bows around eleven if the water is right. Ashore in the afternoon at a small Kachari village, where the headman’s wife will almost certainly hand you rice beer.

    Night: Overnight on board

  4. 4B L D

    Tezpur

    Tezpur and the Da Parbatia door

    Tezpur claims to be the oldest town in Assam and has the stonework to argue it. The Da Parbatia doorframe, carved in the sixth century with two river goddesses, is the finest early sculpture in the North-East. Then Agnigarh hill for the view over the Kolia Bhomora bridge, and back aboard for supper — masor tenga, sour fish curry with tomato and lemon.

    Night: Overnight on board

  5. 5B L D

    Nameri

    The Jia Bhoroli at Nameri

    An hour north to Nameri, where the Jia Bhoroli comes down clear and cold off Arunachal. You raft the gentle stretch on rubber pontoons — no white water, plenty of ibisbill and merganser on the shingle — then walk the sal forest with a park guard. Tea at four on the Balipara verandah, and back to the ship at dusk.

    Night: Overnight on board

  6. 6B L D

    Kaziranga

    Into Kaziranga from Silghat

    The ship berths at Silghat overnight. Two safaris today: the Kohora range after an early cup of tea, when rhino come out of the beels to feed, and the Agoratoli range in the last hour of light for hog deer, capped langur and, if you are lucky, a tiger’s alarm call working through the grass. Lunch aboard between.

    Night: Overnight on board

  7. 7B L D

    Kaziranga

    Bagori range and a tea garden

    One more safari, this time the western Bagori range, which holds the highest density of rhino in the park and a good chance of eastern swamp deer. By ten you are out. The rest of the day belongs to tea: a walk through Hathikuli’s pruned rows with the estate manager, a tasting of first and second flush, and a farewell dinner on deck.

    Night: Overnight on board

  8. 8B L

    Silghat to Guwahati

    Disembark for Guwahati

    Disembark at Silghat after breakfast. The road to Guwahati runs four hours through Nagaon and Jagiroad, past fish markets and paddy still being threshed by hand; there is a lunch stop arranged. Transfer to the airport for your onward flight. Departure day — we will hold a day room in Guwahati if your connection is a late one.

    Night: Departure day — no overnight

What the price covers

  • Seven nights aboard a shallow-draught Brahmaputra vessel, all cabins outward-facing
  • Full board from dinner on Day 1 to lunch on Day 8
  • Three jeep safaris in Kaziranga, with permits and naturalist
  • Rafting on the Jia Bhoroli and a guided walk in Nameri
  • All shore excursions, guides and monument entrance fees
  • Airport transfers and the Silghat to Guwahati road transfer
  • Tea, coffee, drinking water and soft drinks on board

What it does not

  • International flights and Indian e-visa
  • Travel insurance
  • Wines, beers and spirits
  • Still and video camera fees in Kaziranga
  • Gratuities to crew, guides and drivers

Prices are per person on twin share and are a guide only — the final figure depends on your dates, your party size and the properties you choose.

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